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Punvit, first, a $5000 bankroll is huge and more than ample for $100 units but Bankroll size is not the best measurement to go by. It is best to only go to $100 units on winnings, not out of pocket.

We are not there to show off or to be one of the guys. We are strictly there to make money. Look at it as a job.

First get your play down smoothe and mistake free. I'm talking CASINO play here, not home practice. At home you have do-overs. In the casino you don't.

A tip to help you play mistake free is always do everything in the same exact order.

1. Fill in your score from the prior play.

2. Enter your bet on your card properly and check that it is right..

3. Place your bet ON THE RIGHT SIDE

4. BEFORE YOU TAKE YOUR HAND OFF YOUR BET, CHECK THE AMOUNT AND YOUR BET PLACEMENT.

Now, you are going to have easy shoes and tough shoes, easy sessions and tough sessions. Some sessions the shoes are consistently choppy (or streaky) while other sessions are not so consistent

Some days the red and blue shoes are doing the same thing and some sessions they are not.

Your unit color should be determined FIRST by the ease of the session and SECOND by bank roll.

NEVER raise the stakes because you are doing poorly! ONLY raise the stakes when you are doing well.

If the table is not treating you right LEAVE.

DON'T "chase" your bets. That is the sign of an amateur.

DON'T let the other players influence you. THEY LOSE.

When all is going wrong, leave, BUT

When all is going right, EXPLOIT the situation.

Baccarat is not so much about how you play your good shoes. It's a whole lot more about how you play your bad shoes.

NEVER decide your system or your stakes or your prog before you get to the casino - that is pure amateur.

Let the conditions make that decision.

OK, until you know the conditions you have no business making anything but table min bets IF YOU BET AT ALL.

NOW, the limited 345 is a great prog but ONLY if you are usually winning your first bet. If you are usually losing your first bet you have no business making it more than 1 unit. You also need to check your system selection. We always want the system that wins the most first bets. I call the 345 "limited" because your highest bet is limited to 5 and you can not have the worst thing that can happen in Baccarat - a runaway prog.

Here is an example of how to look at this. Lets compare a 123456 to a 345345 in a rough situation:

OK, lets say you win 6 bets in a row and then lose 6 bets in a row:

With the 123456 you are DOWN 15 first bets.

With the 345345 you are down TWO first bets!

Let's say you win the 7th bet.

With the 123456(7) you are STILL down EIGHT first bets. You need to win EIGHT bets to get even.

With the 345345(3) you are only down ONE first bet. You need to win ONE bet to get even.

So, should you always play the 345? Only when you are solidly winning the majority of your first bets - only when you are playing the RIGHT system.

Everybody else looks at the object of Baccarat as winning your prog. WRONG!

Look at the object of Baccarat as winning your first bets. THAT is what will get you on the best system the quickest.

U1D2 M2 is a great prog but it CAN get you into trouble and it can have runaway progs.

345 might lose now and then but it can't lose much.

Winning targets are NOT a good idea. They tend to make you overplay bad shoes and underplay good shoes.

The same Baccarat shoe has NEVER been dealt twice. EVERY shoe is a brand new experience. Forget targets! Go by what is reasonable for the shoe you are playing right now.

IF you are at +20 at play 20, that's one thing. Go for it - up to a point.

IF you are at 0 at play 20, that is an entirely different story.

ALWAYS keep your wits about you.

NEVER get angry no matter what. Leave instead! You can't always beat them.

Sometimes they are highly vulnerable.

But sometimes they are not!

Know the difference.

Hi Ellis, after I have read your replied, I could "feel" every situation you were talking about. You' re really clear up my mind. This posted is not only good for me, but for all the members in this forum.

Thank you again for your valuable advised.

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So a + OT count says play OTB4L.

A - OT count confirms F2.

The count with the highest number is the count we should go by. Sometimes its OR. Sometimes its OT

1.now just to be clear a + OR count calls for system 40 ?

2.And what do we use for a - OR cout? (RD1)

3 Now what I would like to know what are we calling a strong enough count Do we select or system after any of the counts gets to 8 . That seems to be the way 40 indicates in the PDF

4. Also with the sap chart lets say we have a 2-4-0-0 count that would be for the 1-2-3-4 cuplits I feel this is to soon to really pick the LC f to start play. runs of 4 counts for 8 on the chart so even if they are LC they can make up groud fast. So would we not keep changing our LC though out the shoe? so how much of a gap in the count do we need to see to pick the LC?

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Good answer JC. Muling, when you are playing against a shuffle machine, While you are playing the red shoe, the blue shoe is in the machine being shuffled and vice versa. Usually both colors play about the same because they were both shuffled the same length of time according to the machine setting. But some clever casinos set the machine differently for each color so that you get streak with one color and chop with the other. It is always good to note if the two colors are playing about the same or not. Always try to have a good idea of what each color is doing.

The few casinos where I played (Canada, France and Dublinbet ) don't use machine to shuffle and only one colour of cards.

I understand most of the rules , principles and MM of S40. The only problem is the use of the different counts: OT, OR ,SAP, double SAP. Which one and when and with which system. It is very confusing !

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So a + OT count says play OTB4L.

A - OT count confirms F2.

The count with the highest number is the count we should go by. Sometimes its OR. Sometimes its OT

1.now just to be clear a + OR count calls for system 40 ?

2. And what do we use for a - OR count? (RD1)

No, a - OR count usually favors F2 (new rules)

Think of RD1 as a special purpose streak system for use only when you have mostly straight runs following straight runs. This is usually the rarest shoe type in Baccarat. But, when you get it you often keep right on getting it. I've played Vegas when all you saw is runs following runs every casino you walk into. Go figure. RD1 hates 1's whether single or multiple. F2 loves 1's whether single or multiple.

You could think of 40A as mostly 40 for chop and F2 for streak. Think of both RD1 and OTB4L as special purpose 40A systems.

You could also think of F2 as special purpose for the 21212s. It is your best system for that frequent pattern in streaky shoes. 40 with 3 or 4s culprit handles the 212s just fine in choppy shoes.

F2 likes straight and ZZ runs and 212 and sporadic 1's and handles the TTs pretty good. Its virtually a universal streak system. The only advantage RD1 has over F2 is straight runs following runs and that advantage its only slight.

For nearly all practical purposes 40A is a choice between 40 and F2. If your goal is to keep everything as simple as possible, you could forget RD1 and OTB4L. But as soon as you do, guess what you'll see?

3 Now what I would like to know what are we calling a strong enough count Do we select or system after any of the counts gets to 8 . That seems to be the way 40 indicates in the PDF

Ha, no, the casino does not deal for our convenience - just the opposite - They try to screw us up. It's great when you have solidly choppy or solidly streaky shoes and that is what we look for but that is NOT what we always end up with but that is OK as long as we are close.

40 does great in choppy shoes but we selected it for 40A because it has OVERLAP. It also does pretty darn good in slightly streaky shoes.

The same with F2. Sure, it beats the hell out of streak. BUT it also kills ZZ and 212 stretches.

There are shoes that BOTH 40 and F2 beat but there are very few that one or the other can't beat. It's like horseshoes. Close is good! It's not a gunfight! It just seems that way.

4. Also with the sap chart lets say we have a 2-4-0-0 count that would be for the 1-2-3-4 cuplits I feel this is to soon to really pick the LC f to start play. runs of 4 counts for 8 on the chart so even if they are LC they can make up groud fast. So would we not keep changing our LC though out the shoe? so how much of a gap in the count do we need to see to pick the LC?

Yes, your LC usually changes a couple times during the shoe. It's great when it doesn't because you CAN'T lose. But its Self Adjusting, hence SAP - self adjusting progression, the strongest tool in Baccarat (and no one else has it)

On a choppy day, I like to start with 4s culprit and stay that way until the shoe produces 4 circles in a row. I usually don't bet on the first 4 run but wait and see what it does. Hey, why bet on a 5 in a row if there have been no 5s? Sometimes I even make 5s culprit because all the 4s are staying 4. But you still must stay alert!

For instance if you are at the bottom og the first col and one event or another has yet to show, you certainly want to react to that. It may never show. Then you KILL the shoe.

The fact is that played logically 40 alone can beat nearly all shoes. It's just that F2 usually beats streaky shoes better.

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The few casinos where I played (Canada, France and Dublinbet ) don't use machine to shuffle and only one colour of cards.

I understand most of the rules , principles and MM of S40. The only problem is the use of the different counts: OT, OR ,SAP, double SAP. Which one and when and with which system. It is very confusing !

Yes, I can see how that could be a little confusing at first. But I can tell from your questions that you are coming along just fine. Don't fret about it. Rome wasn't built in a stay. All this strange new stuff will start making sense to you a lot faster than you think right now. It's a game of logic. But it takes a little time to develop your Baccarat logic.

I remember when guys like MVS were wondering if they would ever win. NOW they are wondering about how they ever could have lost.

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BTW, I'd like to take this opportunity to welcome all the new guys. Usually we are more polite but sometimes we get a whole bunch at once - esp. right after we com back from a trip.

That reminds me, Ron D. hasn't posted since the Hollywood trip. I'd like him to post about what he saw. After all, Keith and I could have imagined the whole thing. I'm sure you guys get tired of hearing my rendition of things. Ron might still be in shock. I'll email him and see if I can jog him a little. THere were also two new guys there but I never got their names. I was a little busy.

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Right, to download the System 40 Manual, on the front page of BTC, hit Forum at the top. Then hit Baccarat, then System 40, Then System 40 Manual. then hit the blue down load link.

BTW, I just noticed that the signs of the OR count col. on the sample score card on page 11 have not been fixed yet.

They came out all minus signs. An opposite is +1 and a repeat is (minus) - 1.

We will shortly have a similar manual for System 40 Advanced.

Ok, so what is the "System 40 adv. simplified" shoe? How does it fit in with A40?

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I am new here also but the the count is the easy part look at the last out come it is FTL then you have a - number PPPPP would give you a -4 every time it chops you add a +1 so PPPPPB would give you a -3 simple enough There is more than one BS that is used and for you to know which one to use you need to know if the shoe has more streaks or chops thus the reason for the count if you have a - number like in my example you can see there is more streak than chop to the sample

No matter what system you play there will be a pattren to beat you. The idea is that in any given sample some patterns will happen more than they should and some will happen less often than they should. example a shoe is heavey in runs of 2 . So we track the runs of 1-2-3-4 and change the way we bet to fit a pattern that is not showing up in that show that is why you need to track it

The first step would be learn how to get your OR count

step two would be learn how to track the runs in a shoe of 1-2-3-4 that is what we call the SAP chart.

learn that then report back

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Joined yesterday. Read and understand S40finalmanual 100%. The other 2 elements, F2 and RD1 are not clear at all. Different members interpret it differently. Why isn't there a clear cut manual like the S40finalmanual?

I joined thinking this was a completed system not a work in progress. I'm very disappointed in paying $150 for 1/3 of a system less MM strategy. With all due respect to members here, I don't have the time to spend weeks and months on a forum. I was told the price was for the Advanced System 40 manual plus 1 month of forum support. I assumed that was to review the manual if need be. System 40 was posted for free here in the past.

Ellis, if you want to offer me a refund I will take it or produce the complete "Advanced System 40 Manual" including F2 and RD1 rules as I was led to believe was the deal. See my private messages to Keith before I joined. Thank you.

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Joined yesterday. Read and understand S40finalmanual 100%. The other 2 elements, F2 and RD1 are not clear at all. Different members interpret it differently. Why isn't there a clear cut manual like the S40finalmanual?

I joined thinking this was a completed system not a work in progress. I'm very disappointed in paying $150 for 1/3 of a system less MM strategy. With all due respect to members here, I don't have the time to spend weeks and months on a forum. I was told the price was for the Advanced System 40 manual plus 1 month of forum support. I assumed that was to review the manual if need be. System 40 was posted for free here in the past.

Ellis, if you want to offer me a refund I will take it or produce the complete "Advanced System 40 Manual" including F2 and RD1 rules as I was led to believe was the deal. See my private messages to Keith before I joined. Thank you.

Hmmm, We advertised a Sys 40 Manual. You received a Sys 40 manual.

We said we'd teach you 40A - this is the thread to learn it.

40A combines the merits of 40, F2 and RD1

F2, among other places, is posted on this thread post # 149

I'll repost it below for your convenience

An F2 sample, among other places, is posted on this thread played 345M4, post # 160

F2, the way I recommend it played straight 345 is also posted post # 164

The RD1 Manual and examples is in the Baccarat index.

If you found 40 to be that easy, you should have no problem with the far simpler F2 and RD1 systems. They are simple as pie and can only be interpreted ONE way.

"F2 Rules:

Start at play 2 directly under the first circle if you already know its a good F2 table. (MVS that is how I started.)

Or start under the first 2 in a row.

Or start anywhere on the side with the most recent two in a row. (Depends on if you are starting with F2 or switching to F2)

1.) Follow the 2. Change to the other side when it has a 2 in a row. But if you lose the first bet on the new side change sides again.

Otherwise bet under all two in a rows and stay on that side until there is a 2 on the other side.

Bet any progression such as U1D2 M2 but we have done particularly well with the 345. That is it.

Keep your progression aggression relative to the quality of the shoe. You can even flat bet F2

OK the new double switch rule makes the losing pattern a 2 on the other side followed by a 1, 2 rather than a 2 on the wrong side followed by a 3. I figure that the fact that we play F2 in streaky shoes only make the chance of the 212 pattern starting on the wrong side less likely than the 2,3 pattern starting on the wrong side.

Both the 2,1,2 and 2,3 starting on the wrong side losing patterns occur at the same frequency of once every two shoes or once every 128 plays but I figure the 212 pattern is the less likely in streaky shoes.

F2 likes streak both straight and ZZ.

F2 likes high minus OR and OT counts.

F2 likes sporadic (single) ones as well as multiple 1's.

F2 likes the continuous 21212 pattern when you are on the 2 side.

F2 likes strong sided shoes. (The shoe favors one side for long periods)

RD1 also likes streak but only in the form of straight runs and straight runs following straight runs.

When the table is streaky (high minus OR and or OT counts) you will usually be selecting F2. You would only select RD1 when you see a lack of 1's and straight runs following straight runs. But I have played Vegas when every casino was straight runs following straight runs. Go figure.

OK, MVS would you please post that shoe played to the above rules with a continuous 345 prog starting at 3 on play 2. You will hit +70 at play 57 where you could put a single hash mark to denote an obvious quit point. Put a double hash at play 67 to denote a MUST quit point. (+71) but play to the end. Your final score is 64 if I made no mistakes.

You will see that col 1 is Bank all the way except play 20

Col 2 is Player except play 39.

Col 3 is Bank except pays 41, 42, 58 and 59.

Col 4 is Player except play 68.

Thanks!

Guys, You'll see what happens when the new F2 rules hit their losing pattern at the end of the shoe. This should demonstrate why we almost never play a shoe to the last play.

BTW guys note that there is nothing particularly strange about this shoe. The final OR count is -2. The longest straight and ZZ runs are both 7. The shoe has no 3s which means that Sys 40 would also do very well."

RD1 Rules:

1.) Play repeats until you lose the bet under a 1 in a row.

2.) Then play straight down from your losing bet until you lose. Go back to rule 1.

3.) Also bet straight down under a 1,2 to avoid losing to the 212's.

Any prog is good but I like the limited 345

We also include OTB4L under the 40A umbrella.

The OTB4L Manual is posted under Beginners Start Here.

Now, after 30 years of Baccarat, I believe that 40A is, by far, the best Baccarat approach of all time anywhere.

We just averaged 17 units a shoe over an 11 shoe trip W/O betting more than 5. (Posted)

No one else has or could ever do that.

But if you still feel that I somehow cheated you, fine, go to those guys. Good luck with that.

Giving us one day to teach you 30 years of Baccarat? In my opinion you are cheating yourself.

Edited by ECD
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Hi Vic

Looks like form the thread you found th manual IF you need further clarification please post in the forum as I get about 100 private messages a day or call Ellis directly if need be 901.405.1723

Regards

KEith

Vic

Originally Posted by Keith Smith

Originally Posted by victorino402

How can I buy the System 40 system?

Is System 40 Advanced included with it?

Is it a manual?

$150 is for the manual and 1 month of forum access?

Can I learn the system on the forum without buying the manual?

Appreciate any details.

Thanks...Vic

Hi Vic

The answer to all your questions is yes everything is included and it is a manual.

No you must read and buy the manual.

Regards

KEith

Join us in Vegas for the Back to Vegas Seminar

at the Crescent Dealer's School

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Guys, the final System 40 manual is the result of 15 years of fine tuning through actual casino play. Many experts, including other forums, think that System 40 is the best approach to Baccarat ever posted.

I don't agree. I think that 40A has the potential to produce a vast improvement in actual casino results and so far, it has. So, is it ready for a final manual? I've seen way too many "final Manuals" on other forums crash and burn. Why? Because the designer THOUGHT he was ready after a few shoes but in fact, was not even close.

Consider this: Just in the last few weeks, we have made many improvements and simplifications to the 40A concept.

We changed F2 and thusly eliminated the need for F3, as well as RD 2 and 3.

We replaced 40N with OTB4L.

We completely changed the betting concept to eliminate the specter of runaway progs.

So, are we ready for a final cast in concrete manual?

What, after one 11 shoe casino trip?

Maybe, but maybe not.

I consider Mark T the second best system designer on the internet. No one else even has a winning system.

But look what happened to Mark! He had every good intention but only 2 years experience.

He ended up completely revising Maverick after charging $1000.

Next he completely threw out Maverick and replaced it with a completely different concept.

What will he try next?

Good intentions is just not good enough. You have to KNOW your system works. And that takes time. I'll bet Mark wishes he had a couple of do overs. I also think he will eventually make it. Fine, I like worthy competition. And so far, I don't have any.

I'll post a final 40A final manual when I think its ready, not before. After 30 years, I don't make the same mistakes everyone else makes. I know better.

But once you write a manual it is cast in concrete

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hi everyone i new to thi forum, i just downloaded system40 yesterday i've read serveral times but still have no clue what the system is trying to teach. it seems to me like the system is telling about the story, what's the OR count _ + ? what's (LC) least comon? i don't really get it what should i learn first, this is the first system that ever confusing me, and dont get me wrong im not new from Baccarat im an old time baccarat player but this stuff is confusing, what should i learn first? can anyone teach me step by step?

BT, our Bac terminology is 30 years old and adopted by most forums. But it is still new to some players, esp Asian players used to a horizontal score card.

First, study any BTC score card and get used to our vertical way of filling out a score card.

First, we circle the side that won.

Second, learn what we mean by an opposite vs a repeat.

An opposite is a circle on the Opposite side of the last circle like a B following a P or a P following a B.

A repeat is a circle "repeating" the same side like a BB or a PP.

A B PPPP, the first P is an opposite, the other 3 are repeats. The PPPP is a 4 in a row that might go 5.

All our systems are explained in terms of Opposites and Repeats.

System 40 is very simple:

You bet Opposites until an LC occurs.

LC means Least Common event.

Events are 1 in a rows, 2 in a rows, 3 in a rows, etc.

The LC is whichever event is happening the least relative to its normal frequency of occurrence as determined by your SAP chart. Or, you can simply look and see what is happening less than normal.

1's normally occur once every 4 plays

2's every 8 plays

3s every 16 plays and so on.

If 3s are LC, most 3s are going to 4 so that is what you bet. You bet OTR - On The Run.

Recognize that you can't ALWAYS bet Opposites because you will lose to runs. So you protect yourself by going OTR at some point. LC is the best time to go OTR.

Now try reading the manual again. Then try following a System 40 shoe sample. Try to understand Why we bet where we bet. You are making this a lot harder than it actually is.

But System 40, played correctly, beats most shoes. So learn System 40 first. Then we will go from there.

Just bet opposite the last circle until your LC occurs. Get that down first.

Edited by ECD
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"Vic, where are you seeing "40A simplified"? What post #?"

Post #6

Oh, OK, that was just a 3Hi idea posted by one of our astute students. Note that it lost 7 bets in a row and still won the shoe. Ideas are encouraged here. Sometimes we use the brain storming approach; A mediocre idea from one player might spark a great idea from another. 20 heads are better than one, and such. 2 and 3Hi systems are very popular among our members. But, I like the limited 345 better because it rewards you for selecting the right system.

It also, like 3Hi's, eliminates the specter of runaway progs.

But it also allows you to play higher stakes tables W/O playing higher stakes. At least not the way the casino intended but legal nonetheless. After all, the casino's intention is that you lose.

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Vic. et al, your quick grasp of 40 leads me to believe you are quick with concepts. I think one of the most important concepts to grasp up front with System 40 is the LC concept. Everyone in Baccarat eventually suffers catastrophic loses. Some more than others. Everyone EXCEPT Sys 40 players. Catastrophic losses are caused by playing against the MC (most common) event. For instance a system that loses to 4s does fine until you get a shoe with 8 4's in it. So long Charlie! But with the LC concept you are NEVER found betting against the MC event. Hence, no catastrophic losses.

Everyone must include their catastrophic losses in their overall shoe average which usually eventually brings their average down to ZERO, plus commission. Not us! By avoiding castastrophic losses we have a PLUS average even before we get into the finer points of the system. No one else in the world knows or uses the LC concept. We invented it. That is why 40 is the base of 40A.

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ELLIS: "Oh, OK, that was just a 3Hi idea posted by one of our astute students."

Thanks. My understanding of the threads so far is to play System 40, F2, and RD1. Do not use 40N.

When a table is choppy (high plus O/R count) play System 40

When a table is streaky (high minus O/R and/or High O/T count) play F2

When a table lacks of 1's and has straight runs following straight runs play RD1

Am I missing something and Is there a specific thread # that explains the above in a more detail?

Also, if using the 3,4,5 continuous prog, (I like it) and need to switch strategies you probably just lost 12 units (-3, -4, -5). What buy-in/ bankroll do you recommend?

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ELLIS: "Oh, OK, that was just a 3Hi idea posted by one of our astute students."

Thanks. My understanding of the threads so far is to play System 40, F2, and RD1. Do not use 40N.

When a table is choppy (high plus O/R count) play System 40

When a table is streaky (high minus O/R and/or High O/T count) play F2

When a table lacks of 1's and has straight runs following straight runs play RD1

Am I missing something and Is there a specific thread # that explains the above in a more detail?

Also, if using the 3,4,5 continuous prog, (I like it) and need to switch strategies you probably just lost 12 units (-3, -4, -5). What buy-in/ bankroll do you recommend?

CORRECT! That is the simplest form of 40A and the way we played in the casino.

40N is a great system when the OR count is hovering 0. But 40 does OK.

OTB4L is a great system when you have a high plus OT count. But 40 does OK.

You might want to learn those AFTER you have 40, F2 and RD1 COMPLETELY mastered. But for now, I think there is greater value in keeping the 40A concept as simple as possible while still having a good way to play every shoe type.

No, I can't think of any specific thread but we keep going back again and again and touching those same points.

One of the problems with this type of forum is that we have players with vastly different levels of learning and experience plus we are dealing with multiple languages and disciplines.

Life was a lot simpler when I could simply write a manual every few months and sell several hundred at $3000 a copy.

But a player is FAR better equipped with several complimenting systems under his belt and constant instruction on how to apply them even though you COULD win with 40 alone as many have demonstrated. But I want my players to be the best in the world.

I wrote the first Baccarat book in the English language - probably in any language??? In fact I probably wrote the first ten. Back then I had NO competition. Today, I have competition from every Tom Dick and Harry with a computer.

But, can they play? The only guys I fear are the guys I taught. And those are also the only guys the casino fears.

Edited by ECD
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Right, forget RDH, it's not mine. Yes, post #36 in the RD1 manual is a good explanation and post #3 is a good sample. It used an U1D2M2 unlimited betting strategy with no 0 bets which is a little aggressive. I prefer a 345 limited but all the bet placements are correct to the current rules as I just posted them.

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Right, forget RDH, it's not mine. Yes, post #36 in the RD1 manual is a good explanation and post #3 is a good sample. It used an U1D2M2 unlimited betting strategy with no 0 bets which is a little aggressive. I prefer a 345 limited but all the bet placements are correct to the current rules as I just posted them.

When using the 3,4,5 limited , (I like it) and you need to switch strategies you probably just lost 12 units (-3, -4, -5). What unit buy-in amount do you recommend for the 345 prog?

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Change to the other side when it has a 2 in a row. But if you lose the first bet on the new side change sides again.

Otherwise bet under all two in a rows and stay on that side until there is a 2 on the other side.

OK the new double switch rule makes the losing pattern a 2 on the other side followed by a 1, 2 rather than a 2 on the wrong side followed by a 3. I figure that the fact that we play F2 in streaky shoes only make the chance of the 212 pattern starting on the wrong side less likely than the 2,3 pattern starting on the wrong side.

Both the 2,1,2 and 2,3 starting on the wrong side losing patterns occur at the same frequency of once every two shoes or once every 128 plays but I figure the 212 pattern is the less likely in streaky shoes.

Above is thread #149. This is the most confusing thing for me in everything I have read so far. Can you explain it differently or refer me to an example shoe which it shows this.

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