victorino402

Where are the details of chapter one? The link takes me to an order page which I already did. Vic

Thank you for the response on the shoe. I am sure there are plenty more that I will find and that will prove to be good learning tools for all of us. I have another question, Ellis, if you will, and other members, please feel free to jump in as well: Big Baccarat and Macau Style both use a deck once, that is then thrown away, is, how does this effect the play of System 40? Since the same decks are not being re-shuffled like Mini-Baccarat, does this effect how we play, and if so how? This is an important question as when playing at bigger stakes, you may want to play Big Baccarat or Macau style. Ellis you sometimes describe your success playing a game of Big Baccarat with you and your wife running $1,000 into $10,000, so since you play it, could you please advise? Thank you!

So is it good enough to simply use the O/R count as the indicator for when to switch to OTB4L or should we be keeping an O/T count throughout the whole shoe or at the point where we implement OTB4L? Detailed "charting" become a hassle after awhile and leads to mistakes. What's the best way to chart? SAP and O/R or SAP, O/R and O/T?

Ellis, here's a shoe that gave me trouble. I think that because it was a + S40 shoe with little disparity on the SAP chart I couldn't beat it. I understand we will lose to 10% of shoes. How would you have played it? -Vic- B123212111141 P213111121223 P2161111412 P3

GREAT lesson Ellis. Thanks!

Ellis did you overlook this question on thread #27 or did you not want to answer it due to some manuals disappearing? I wasn't sure if that was directed towards me or not.

Ellis, Page 3, paragraph 2 of the F2 manual states, "If you have a count of -2 or greater then you should play F2 rather than System 40. In addition, if you are watching a shoe and you see the count fall in the negative direction of +5 points. For instance you see a shoe at +3 and it falls to -2." Should this be a rule of thumb as to changing modes whenever the O/R count changes +/- 5 points either from Chop to Streak or Streak to Chop? When to switch chop/streak modes seems to be the key strategy in 40A. Is this right or can you give a better trigger as to when to switch modes? What about if the O/R count was +7 and falls to +2, should we switch to Streak even though the shoe is still technically a Chop shoe? Vic

Quoting Ellis, "By "starting out" I mean a table you know NOTHING about. I almost NEVER find myself in that situation. I make it a point to examine prior score cards at the target table or know what the card prep produces. I don't play in the blind." So along those lines, would it be a good idea to wait until a shoe O/R count shows +/- 2 or +/- 3 and then select S40, F2, or RD1 accordingly? Or, if it hovers around zero, +/-1 for five or six hands select OTB4L? Also, if a shoe hits +/- 8 Streak Shoe status, do we raise our base unit of the prog we are using? Then if it goes back below +/- 8 revert back to the original base unit? Ellis, you play a 345prog, why not play a 348 prog? Would that improve or lower profits? Is this the thread to post all A40 threads now?

Quoting Ellis, "By "starting out" I mean a table you know NOTHING about. I almost NEVER find myself in that situation. I make it a point to examine prior score cards at the target table or know what the card prep produces. I don't play in the blind." So along those lines, would it be a good idea to wait until a shoe O/R count shows +/- 2 or +/- 3 and then select S40, F2, or RD1 accordingly? Or, if it hovers around zero, +/-1 for five or six hands select OTB4L? Also, if a shoe hits +/- 8 Streak Shoe status, do we raise our base unit of the prog we are using? Then if it goes back below +/- 8 revert back to the original base unit?

Thanks again punvit. Ellis, what do you recommend for a new student starting out on a $25 table for buy-in and bankroll amounts? Ratio for unit/ buy in/bankroll?

Thank you Punvit. What is you buy in to bankroll ratio? In other words if you were just starting out and 20 units was your buy in, what would your bankroll be?

What buy-ins and bankrolls are you guys using for 40A? The buy in and bankroll is important. Let's say using: 345 Limited Prog U1D2M2 U1D2 no M2 Thanks

I'm not really losing sight of the O/R count. I guess my problem is when I am looking at the SAP chart and LC (2's) has a huge disparity (10-0-16-16) then 2's start coming back to the pack. I'm doing well and it is still LC but in the meantime I'm getting killed by continuing to bet against it. The O/R is still about the same but I'm losing to the LC comeback. I hope you understand what I mean. If so, what should I do in that situation? Thanks for all your help.

My mind is suffering paralysis by analysis. Doesn't S40 love 1's as well if the culprit is 3 or 4? Doesn't S40 beat all ZZ's and all 212's when the culprit is 3 or 4 while F2 loses to half ZZ's and half the 212's? What advantage does F2 have over S40? Also, if RD1 is only used about 10% of the time, what percentages are S40 and F2 used?

Thanks. Yes I get it now. With that, doesn't RD1 in some cases lose to the same 212 pattern? If so, then what is the key to choosing F2 over RD1? My guess is if there are 1's or ZZ's showing up choose RD1. If not choose F2. Furthermore, isn't F2 the same as making 1's the culprit in S40. Is there a difference?

Above is thread #149. This is the most confusing thing for me in everything I have read so far. Can you explain it differently or refer me to an example shoe which it shows this.

When using the 3,4,5 limited , (I like it) and you need to switch strategies you probably just lost 12 units (-3, -4, -5). What unit buy-in amount do you recommend for the 345 prog?

I see some spin-offs such as RD1-H and others in the threads. Is post #36 by MVS the correct startegy we should use with RD1?

ELLIS: "Oh, OK, that was just a 3Hi idea posted by one of our astute students." Thanks. My understanding of the threads so far is to play System 40, F2, and RD1. Do not use 40N. When a table is choppy (high plus O/R count) play System 40 When a table is streaky (high minus O/R and/or High O/T count) play F2 When a table lacks of 1's and has straight runs following straight runs play RD1 Am I missing something and Is there a specific thread # that explains the above in a more detail? Also, if using the 3,4,5 continuous prog, (I like it) and need to switch strategies you probably just lost 12 units (-3, -4, -5). What buy-in/ bankroll do you recommend?

What post # is the RD1 Manual in?

"Vic, where are you seeing "40A simplified"? What post #?" Post #6

Joined yesterday. Read and understand S40finalmanual 100%. The other 2 elements, F2 and RD1 are not clear at all. Different members interpret it differently. Why isn't there a clear cut manual like the S40finalmanual? I joined thinking this was a completed system not a work in progress. I'm very disappointed in paying $150 for 1/3 of a system less MM strategy. With all due respect to members here, I don't have the time to spend weeks and months on a forum. I was told the price was for the Advanced System 40 manual plus 1 month of forum support. I assumed that was to review the manual if need be. System 40 was posted for free here in the past. Ellis, if you want to offer me a refund I will take it or produce the complete "Advanced System 40 Manual" including F2 and RD1 rules as I was led to believe was the deal. See my private messages to Keith before I joined. Thank you.

Ok, so what is the "System 40 adv. simplified" shoe? How does it fit in with A40?

Messages 1, 2, and 3 appear to be missing. Plus Keith told me there was a manual to study along with 30 day support. What's up with that?