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Confused about U1D2 M2


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dawgpen13,

The U1 means you go up 1 unit when you lose. Ex. if you were to bet 1 unit and you lose it, then next time you would bet 2 units. If you lose that bet, then next time you would bet 3 units. etc. rtc. That's the (U)p 1 part.

The D2 means that once you do win you go down 2 units for your next bet. Say you lose a 1 unit bet, then lost a 2 unit bet, then lose a three unit bet, but then you won a 4 unit bet. Your next bet would be 2 units (Down 2). One note about the D2 part you can't go to 0, your lowest bet is still 1 unit.

The M2 means that all 1 unit bets go to 2 win or lose.

It's really easy once you play a few shoes. Here's an example of how the betting could go.

Bet

1 - Lose

2 - Lose (Up 1 as you lose)

3 - lose

4 - lose

5 - Win

3 - Win (went down 2)

1 - Win (down 2 again)

Your next bet would be 2 units because of the M2.

Hope this helps

PJ

Edited by ECD
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It depends on what the tote board/shoe is showing. Among the systems I prefer are RD1, SKORz, TB4L+ and OTB4L. I think those 4 systems can handle just about any shoe. They are the ones I recommend. Remember though, no matter what system you use you will still have an occasional losing shoe. Just read all of Ellis's posts about how to select the best system for the shoe at hand.

I also suggest that you read and re-read the threads that deal with these systems and you will find out which ones you feel most comfortable using. Remember don't rush to a casino until you play lots of practice shoes. There's a thread here somewhere that just list shoes submitted by other members. These are actual casino shoes and are great for practicing with.

PJ

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  • 3 months later...

U1D1M2 or U1D2M2 betting progs are simply just climbing a pyramid.

<font color=white>---------- </font>W 5

<font color=white>-------</font>L 4<font color=white>____</font> W4

<font color=white>-----</font>L 3<font color=white>_________</font>W 3

<font color=white>--</font>L 2<font color=white>______________</font>W2

L1<font color=white>___________________</font>W1 U1D1 progression Note on the way up the pyramid you have four losses, this is offset by the four wins on the other downside Net win for this is your highest bet (5) !

<font color=white>_______</font>W5

<font color=white>_____ </font>L4<font color=white>___</font>W3

<font color=white>____</font>L3<font color=white>________</font>W1

<font color=white>__</font>L2<font color=white>_____________</font>W2 -Mandatory 2 bet!

L1<font color=white>__________________</font>W1 ok as you can see four losses on the way up = -10 four wins on the way down = +7 The high bet is weakened by the 3 unit overall Up/Down

Loss. Now the idea with the d2 is to keep bets low so you don't go up the pyramid and run out of plays to come down!

Which is better to use? I mentioned U1D1M2C4 awhile back. This would work out like so.....

<font color=white>________</font>W4

<font color=white>______</font>L4<font color=white>____</font>W4

<font color=white> ____</font>L3<font color=white>________</font>W3

<font color=white>__</font>L2<font color=white>______________</font>W2

L1<font color=white>___________________</font>W1 This would have the same effect as U!D1 without high bets. You cap your highest bet at 4 or 5 which ever you are more comfortable with using. Then you must W the capped bet twice before you go down. Here is another example below.

<font color=white>_______</font>W4<font color=white>__</font>W4

<font color=white>_____</font>L4<font color=white>___</font>L4<font color=white>____</font>W4

<font color=white>____</font>L3<font color=white>_____________</font>W3

<font color=white>__</font>L2<font color=white>_________________</font>W2

L1<font color=white>______________________</font>W1

Ellis, is there any reason we shouldn't use this with Maverick??? Any comments???? ANYONE???

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"If you don't think too good, don't think too much!!"

-----------------------

John

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  • 1 year later...
dawgpen13,

The U1 means you go up 1 unit when you lose. Ex. if you were to bet 1 unit and you lose it, then next time you would bet 2 units. If you lose that bet, then next time you would bet 3 units. etc. rtc. That's the (U)p 1 part.

The D2 means that once you do win you go down 2 units for your next bet. Say you lose a 1 unit bet, then lost a 2 unit bet, then lose a three unit bet, but then you won a 4 unit bet. Your next bet would be 2 units (Down 2). One note about the D2 part you can't go to 0, your lowest bet is still 1 unit.

The M2 means that all 1 unit bets go to 2 win or lose.

It's really easy once you play a few shoes. Here's an example of how the betting could go.

Bet

1 - Lose

2 - Lose (Up 1 as you lose)

3 - lose

4 - lose

5 - Win

3 - Win (went down 2)

1 - Win (down 2 again)

Your next bet would be 2 units because of the M2.

Hope this helps

PJ

Thanks for this I am new here and was wondering about this also. So to continue where you left off at:

1 - Win (down 2 again), your next bet would be 2 units because of the M2.

So does that mean you would bet 2 units and if it wins keep on betting 2 units? Or would you just bet it one time and go back to 1 unit? Sorry for the noob question.

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ktd,

For U1D2M2, when you are winning, you would keep betting back and forth between 1u and 2u bets.

So, for example, if your current bet is 1u and you won the next 6 decisions, then your bet sequence would be:

1-2-1-2-1-2 ....

If your current bet is 3u and you won the next 6 decisions, then your bet sequence would be:

3-1-2-1-2-1 ...

If your current bet is 4u and you won the next 6 decisions, then your bet sequence would be:

4-2-1-2-1-2 ...

etc ...

Thanks for this I am new here and was wondering about this also. So to continue where you left off at:

1 - Win (down 2 again), your next bet would be 2 units because of the M2.

So does that mean you would bet 2 units and if it wins keep on betting 2 units? Or would you just bet it one time and go back to 1 unit? Sorry for the noob question.

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Right: M2 means Mandatory 2. You always bet 2 after 1, win or lose the 1.

U1D2M2 is a little more aggressive than U1D2. For NOR, we usually don't use either one. we bet a 123 4 prog and go back to 1 on all wins. If we are winning most of our bets, especially our 1 bets, we advance to 234 and then to 345. Our highest bet is always 5 and even that is only once we are at 345. Also with NOR we often flat bet at 1 until we are sure of our system and mode and until we win a 1 bet.

U1D2M2 is really designed for net betting which none of the 3 NOR systems use.

The reason for the gap in the 123 4 NOR prog is because we usually don't bet the 4 unless we are ahead and making the bet with casino money. So 4 bets are quite rare.

With a 123 4 we are trying to get to 10 but if all is going well and we can advance to the 234 successfully we shoot for 15 and with the 345 our goal is 20. But sometimes we hit 20 so early with the 345 that we can shoot for 30 or more. But if you try this, once you hit 20, capture +15.

These goals are merely suggestions. If you start to struggle get out. And once you hit +6 it's a good idea to capture +1.

In all cases our stop loss is -8.

Now, you might think that -8 in not enough for the 345 but it is because you wouldn't go to the 345 unless you were substantially ahead.

Edited by Guest
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Right: M2 means Mandatory 2. You always bet 2 after 1, win or lose the 1.

U1D2M2 is a little more aggressive than U1D2. For NOR, we usually don't use either one. we bet a 123 4 prog and go back to 1 on all wins. If we are winning most of our bets, especially our 1 bets, we advance to 234 and then to 345. Our highest bet is always 5 and even that is only once we are at 345. Also with NOR we often flat bet at 1 until we are sure of our system and mode and until we win a 1 bet.

U1D2M2 is really designed for net betting which none of the 3 NOR systems use.

The reason for the gap in the 123 4 NOR prog is because we usually don't bet the 4 unless we are ahead and making the bet with casino money. So 4 bets are quite rare.

With a 123 4 we are trying to get to 10 but if all is going well and we can advance to the 234 successfully we shoot for 15 and with the 345 our goal is 20. But sometimes we hit 20 so early with the 345 that we can shoot for 30 or more. But if you try this, once you hit 20, capture +15.

These goals are merely suggestions. If you start to struggle get out. And once you hit +6 it's a good idea to capture +1.

In all cases our stop loss is -8.

Now, you might think that -8 in not enough for the 345 but it is because you wouldn't go to the 345 unless you were substantially ahead.

Thanks for this, again very helpful as I start to navigate my way around here and learn all these different lingos. So with 1234 prog (guessing prog stands for progressive) what happens if you don't win on the 4th bet? Do you just stop and start over at 1 or leave the shoe?

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Thanks for this, again very helpful as I start to navigate my way around here and learn all these different lingos. So with 1234 prog (guessing prog stands for progressive) what happens if you don't win on the 4th bet? Do you just stop and start over at 1 or leave the shoe?

Right, prog stands for progression.

First, recognize that we don't always make the 4 bet after losing a 123. Remember our stop loss is - 8. So if we were at say -6 and a 4 bet was due, a loss would put us below -8 so we would quit at - 6 rather than subject ourselves to the possibility of going worse than - 8. We only make a 4 bet if we can do so with all or partially casino money (winnings that shoe). So we always think twice before making a 4 bet. Is this shoe really worth a 4 bet? If so, how come we just lost 3 in a row???

Later in the shoe you may be substantially ahead. But here you are even less likely to make a 4 bet. Let's say I'm at +12 and I lose a 1 bet. Now I'm at +11 with a 2 bet due. I'm going to quit right there with +11. In other words I'm going to capture 10 once I pass 10.

Why? The shoe wasn't good enough to advance up to the 234 or 345. It it was, I would have advanced before now. So the shoe is only mediocre. +11 is a great score for a mediocre shoe!

In so far as what to do when you do take that rare chance and lose a 4 W/O hitting your stop loss. You go back to a 1 bet.

The more interesting question is what do you do after a WINNING 4 ? I don't always go to 1. In an otherwise good shoe I will often go from a winning 4 to 2 and if I win the 2 I'm very likely to advance to the 234 right there.

Why? If you lose a 123 you are -6 for that prog. A winning 4,2 puts you even, even though you only won 2 bets out of 5. That's a good deal.

See, you want to get to the 234 and then the 345 because they actually incur less risk than the 123.

How could that be?

Look at it this way: If you lose a 123 you are down 6 first bets.

If you lose a 234 you are down only 4.5 first bets.

Lose a 345 and you are down only 4 first bets. (much easier to recover)

Therefore, whenever you are winning most of your first bets, advance your prog. You usually will be glad you did. A 345 can get into the 30s and even the 40s quite easily.

See the whole idea is to take max advantage of good shoes while being ultra conservative in bad or mediocre shoes.

We have all been in super choppy shoes where you are seeing one ZZ after another. S40 wins every bet in a ZZ run. Would you rather have all those winning bets be 1 unit bets or 3 unit bets?

The same is true of straight runs with Sys F in streaky shoes.

And the same is true of TT runs (BB PP BB) runs with OTB4L in Neutral shoes.

We always want to go with what the traffic will bare in good shoes because there will be days when there is no traffic.

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