# Thanks Keith

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... for the new forum.

Now let's get started. I want to know how you raise the stakes Carlos. I use fibonacci. What do you use?

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Dont forget the main forum as it keeps people coming back as we need more registered players posting. Also if you can get guys to link to our site it will help

KS

at the Crescent Dealer's School

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To Keith. Thanks! To Mad Dog, let's break it down to 2. First, in third base games, if I know I will be there a while, I wait till I make my first 3 stacks. So, now I have my buy in back and if all goes to hell, at least I played for free. Then I wait to make one more stack. So, we are talking my first 4 stacks. Buy in captured and a guaranteed 12 chip take home profit stack. The other 2 stacks left, I double my units for a 1-4-6. Then I make 2 more piles. Now I have another guranteed stack for home, which is actually 2 stacks plus the one before. Now I am guaranteed 3 stacks profit to take home. Now I go quadruple for a 1-4-6. Say I started at black. Now I play with \$400 base of 12 units. So, still a 1-4-6, which is now, \$400-\$1,600-\$2,400. I keep going with that pattern.

Now, for first base or advantage betting or head to head advantage betting, I might go \$100 low bets (lets say table min is \$100) and \$1,000 for high bets, even though table max might be \$5,000. I do this to see if I can just play high bets flat or if that game it's better to use a neg prog on high bets only. This way I can go \$1,000-\$3,000-\$5,000.

If some games at third or advantage play I consistantly see I win like 5, 6 or more hands in a row, and say on the high bet, I go \$1,000, again at \$1,000, and again at \$1,000, if keep winning, then I go \$2,000, \$3,000, \$4,000 and then table max of \$5,000 and keep at table max till lose. In this situation, I don't need to go by the number of high rounds in a row because in this game I might be noticing that I win many hands in a row, in high or low rounds. It might be because dealer has no bias and I developed a player bias or dealer breaks like crazy or I out perform her in low runs and low rounds or I am mostly getting Class A hands and/or dealer is mostly getting Class B hands.

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Keith, I will also keep the public blackjack forum hot and going without revealing anything.

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Wow so it sounds like what we do is similar. With fibonacci, I lock up my original 12 units as soon as I have a second stack. When I make a third stack, I double up without locking anything. If I win the double size stack, I have two double size stacks, and so I lock one quarter of it, and make a triple size stack. If I win another triple size stack, I make a 5-times size stack and lock up the rest. If I win another 5-times size stack, I make an 8 size stack and lock up the rest. After the 8-size stack there's a 13 and a 21 and a 34. I have reached the 21, but not the 34 (yet.)

Sometimes I surge past my goal of making a new stack with a double down, and there are extra chips. One idea is to lock them up, but I keep them in play instead. So I only lock the minimum that fibonacci demands and I keep the rest in play to reduce my risk of ruin at the new higher betting unit.

To Keith. Thanks! To Mad Dog, let's break it down to 2. First, in third base games, if I know I will be there a while, I wait till I make my first 3 stacks. So, now I have my buy in back and if all goes to hell, at least I played for free. Then I wait to make one more stack. So, we are talking my first 4 stacks. Buy in captured and a guaranteed 12 chip take home profit stack. The other 2 stacks left, I double my units for a 1-4-6. Then I make 2 more piles. Now I have another guranteed stack for home, which is actually 2 stacks plus the one before. Now I am guaranteed 3 stacks profit to take home. Now I go quadruple for a 1-4-6. Say I started at black. Now I play with \$400 base of 12 units. So, still a 1-4-6, which is now, \$400-\$1,600-\$2,400. I keep going with that pattern.

Now, for first base or advantage betting or head to head advantage betting, I might go \$100 low bets (lets say table min is \$100) and \$1,000 for high bets, even though table max might be \$5,000. I do this to see if I can just play high bets flat or if that game it's better to use a neg prog on high bets only. This way I can go \$1,000-\$3,000-\$5,000.

If some games at third or advantage play I consistantly see I win like 5, 6 or more hands in a row, and say on the high bet, I go \$1,000, again at \$1,000, and again at \$1,000, if keep winning, then I go \$2,000, \$3,000, \$4,000 and then table max of \$5,000 and keep at table max till lose. In this situation, I don't need to go by the number of high rounds in a row because in this game I might be noticing that I win many hands in a row, in high or low rounds. It might be because dealer has no bias and I developed a player bias or dealer breaks like crazy or I out perform her in low runs and low rounds or I am mostly getting Class A hands and/or dealer is mostly getting Class B hands.

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What do you guys think about hitting a hard 17, 18, 19 and even 20? What are your reasons for doing so and how and when? Do you guys ALWAYS split Two's, Three's? What about 4's, 5's, 6's, 7's? If yes, why? When? And, how?

What do you guys think? Mad Dog, Keith, Ellis?

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Most players lose overall on their splits. Splits are never a good hand, even Aces. Aces I go by what's running. Aces give you 2 free hits except if you get 2 tens.

There's no big future in splitting 8s against a 9, 10 or A. Hit if lows are running or stand if tens are running.

2s. 3s, and 4s, against a hi card. You've got a terrible hand. Why bet more money on it.

I thing the best split is 8s against a 7. In fact, I OFTEN double an 8 total against a 7 with highs running. Same with 9s against 8 or 7 but 8 is better because you can draw an A 2 3 and still have a winning hand maybe even a double.

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• 2 weeks later...

at the Crescent Dealer's School

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