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wolfat

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Posts posted by wolfat

  1. On 11/11/2016 at 8:36 PM, William Looi said:

    Money management is very important,  now I flat bet first until I am 2 unit plus then go to 1,2, loop. and target another 3 unites then the total is 5 unites. the main idea is I do not want to risk 3 unites (my own money)with negative progression ,and only utilize the casino money to play 1,2 loop.   Bank-row for that session is only 3 unites.  No bulldozer method meaning play every hand, chose  shoe that is familiar with , not every shoe , it is ok to reject that shoe that look not familiar with, I am here to win money ( my target is money go home with me) not to show off I can bet every shoe ,be humble  . shoe selection is important.  chose easy target, don't play every shoe that come to you,

    I watch a documentary movie , tiger do not attack every deer , it survey and attack at the right timing, be wise learn from the nature, wisdom is calling us to learn from the nature, look and look and you will see, 

     

    I agree William 100% and this is also my style, I called it "Small Ball Baccarat", this is copyrighted yet, ok?

    I look for small winnings in every shoe, can be also 2-3 units but a LOW RISK! sometimes I win 2 units in a row and leave!

    ...but my bankroll increases slowly but steadily and have made many Level ups! cards don't know the value of your chips!

    A

    • Like 2
  2. These are the original rules, in brief:

     

     "We can call it RD1 for now.

    Starting at play 2 with a 1 bet, bet U1D2 M2 on repeats except bet straight down when you lose the bet under a 1 in a row and straight down when you lose the bet under a 1, 2 (under a 2 in a row that immediately follows a 1 in a row). Otherwise, repeats (Under the previous circle.)

    You'll see that now you beat every straight run, every ZZ run, every TT run as well as the 212's."

    • Like 1
  3. Hi,

    nott too much to add at this thread...

    Just wanna say that your stop-loss must be proportional to your avg. winning shoe.

    Flat betting will prevent you from losing, if you are ready to lose an amoumt close to your avg winning, this doesn hurt you too much.

    Personally I make my probe bet at 1/2 u, tasting water and then switching to standard unit of 1 when getting results.

     

    For me -4/-5 is the max loss I can allow to a shoe but dont forget to bet when you have a strong reason for doing it.

    A

    • Like 3
  4. 7 minutes ago, douglasb53 said:

    Good question Wolfat . I was also wondering if you win your 1st  3 goes to 4 after you see a 4+IAR do you bet that multiple times when you see other 3IAR's  or are you done?

    This is also my question...

    I guess that if 3s are low/LC you should continue, anyway you need also to look at last events. It happened to me that, in a shoe full of 3s till half then switched to 4s+ that heavily hit in the last part of the shoe. So... be ready to adapt your play!

  5. On 10/8/2016 at 9:01 PM, Baccman said:

    Ok,  we have 93 % winning triggers using this rule...i 60 shoes that i have tested it was 130 triggers and 122 of them won...that means that after first 4 + there was not 3×3 after it. If we were using 1 2 4 NP we would have won 122units and lose 8×7 = 56...that means 66 units for 60 shoes....some of this shoes were very short and sdnt had any trigger... if someone is happy with score he can play like this...Pando and i have same result from different shoes, it means that you sholud get same on tour shoes. NOW, big question is... do we need to stay on the run all the way...i think that we can use this rules...we can go on the run all the way if 4+ is stronger then 4, also go on the run if 4+ are not stronger but run have gone to 5....then do not bet if 3s are MC by 3 point spread and stop to bet when you see 3×3s.

    Any oppinions ?

     

    Baccman 

    I would like to put here my two cents...

    I don't know how many 4s or 4s+ you find in your shoes, we can assume that you can find, on avg, 3-4? so its difficult, unless you find an early long run, to have a reliable SAP count to compare them.  IMO it should be better track your own stats about 4s and 4s+, after some events, I think you should be amazed about patterns you will see...

    About not betting on runs when 3s are high or MC, this is extremely savvy and safe. 

    I have not detailed stats on 3s going 4s after a 4s/+ but since Pando talked about it, I gave it a smart eye and mostly is a pattern that holds, win some money with it.

    ...but I have a question for Pando: when you get the first 4s or 4s+, you continue looking for other long runs? I know you assume that at this point 3s are low, so it's a good idea attack for 3iar going 4, but do you have stats at regard? thanks

    A

     

    • Like 2
  6. Avion, I agree with you. Helping others is a great thing for many reasons:

    IE you can revise your own strategy, you feel good doing something for other people, you return part of knowledge got in the past and have the opporunity to leave a heritage of what you learnt in decades...

    On the other side the "student" need to put big effort in learning and must be ready to listen the master. I remember two yrs ago I teach my technique to a guy from Macau. I dedicate him a lot of time and... when he had been "in the battle" start behaving like a compulsive gambler and lost the b.roll. I wasted my time with someone hadn't the mindset for professional play. ...Other times I have had nice and worthwhile experiences with many good players.

    • Like 1
  7. To set when a side get "lucky cards" I consider this when it gets 1 of the 2 or 3max cards availables to win the hand.

    Every card worths 8% (1/13), so the winning hand get the winning card when it was at 8/92% to lose, or 16/84%, or 24/36% (with 3 cards availables).

    IE, this happened to me yesterday:

    first deal: P4 B3

    then P get a 8 totaling 2

    ..and the B get a 7 totalling 0!

    lol I was on B...

    sometimesit it happens|!

    PS I have one more question for my fellow players:

    Do you usually play a pattern straightforward, IE when you decide to play, sy OTBL, or prefere to play, more selectively, a "pattern within  the pattern" like Avion said.

    Be selective is less risky, but also less rewarding.

    What's your opinion on this matter?

    thanks

    • Like 1
  8. 8 hours ago, brad01 said:

    Yes this is true

    Exactly right that sometimes the side that is winning doesn't draw naturals or great hands or scores but the other side just loses no matter what

    Both situations cause the same outcome - a SS bias

    It exists that's for sure and we should look for it rather than just outcomes.

    Another reason why its always better to follow bias than to try and predict the change in a bias

     

     

    This happens not only with streaks but also in case of long chop run.

    anyway same phenomenon, but alternating side...

    • Like 1
  9. I am used to notice this:

    there are some hands where one side get the 1 or 2 cards available to win the hand, it's a hand won with little % say 8 vs 92% or 16 vs 84%.

    IE:  P has 7, B 5. now B get one card and it's a 3 (or a 4) and win the hand.

    This is what I call a "lucky hand" for B that won the hand with one out of two cards available to win.

    but I didn't found a way to exploit this...

  10. the mental side of a player is very important. I divided the must for a professional into 3 main courses:

    knowledge, you must know mostly everything about your game

    bankrolo, with poor or scared money you ll. never win long run

    mindset, that allows you to overcome difficulties.

    I wrote an article on this matter of about 9 pages; in this article there are some statements I took somewhere from other authors, so I can t. post it here but if someone is interested, post here his eml address and I ll sent it to him.

    A

  11. Don't know if this is the correct thread, anyway...

    it's a couple of days that I am playing L3EM with "delayed triggers" as companion system of MDB.

    By delayed trigger I mean that, applying L3EM as per Brad stated, I put money on the trigger only when this trigger wins 3 iar or 3/4.

    This way I catch long biases that usually appears at least one time for shoe, at a very low risk. I add to this way to play MDB+, to get more opportunities to bet.

    I usually bet ar. 1 times per shoe and for me is ok. I get 2-4 units quite easily, it depends on how triggers develop, and very safely.

  12. On 21 gennaio 2016 at 11:16 PM, brad01 said:

    Brad,  regarding your triggers I need to clarify this:

    I think that the triggers regarding OTBL plays must be "confirmed" before betting, instead those regarding opposites or repeats need an on the run betting. correct?

    thank you for answer and for sharing your work.

    A

     

     

     

     

    On 21 gennaio 2016 at 11:16 PM, brad01 said:

    Triggers I am currently using:

    Neutral (OTBL)

    22 or 32 or 23

    Opposite (S40)

    1211 or 1111 or 2111

    Repeat

    42 or 24 or 33 or 34 or 43

    Repeat (Strong Side)

    213 or 313 or 312

    S40M1 (TBL) - wait for a bunch of 2's or OTBL or repeat bias followed by:

    113 or 4113 - Straights and ZZ runs with NO 2's

    Answers to your questions

    Mostly 2 events I use except for opposite events are short

    What is better to measure is NUMBER OF PLAYS

    An opposite bias trigger of 1211 is 5 plays long and 4 events

    while a repeat trigger of 34 is only 2 events but 7 plays long

    so generally 2 events but its not all the same

    NUMBER OF PLAYS IS MORE ACCURATE 

    But the exact trigger are there above to look at.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
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